Arusha Adventure

My adventures in Arusha, Tanzania over the course of 5 weeks doing AIDS Service Work.

Monday, August 14, 2006

Made it back, but already missing it...

Just a note to say that despite all of the travel turmoil, I made it back safe and sound to a very warm welcome from my Dad, Bonni, and Brant, then my sisters and their families. While it is sad to have left Tanzania, I really grew to love life there, it is nice to have familiar people and things around again. I am a little weirded out by things back home, especially spending so much time inside instead of always being outdoors, and the slow life style of Africans. Not to mention not being one of the few white people around and the fact that people speak English. I've gotten so used to not being understood when I speak.

I really fell in love with that country and encourage everyone to make a trip out there. I will provide my services to help you plan! Check back here for pictures - I'm working on getting pictures posted. Thanks for all of the support and interest in my journey - it has been quite a crazy 5 weeks!

Love, Kendra

From Ethiopia

An entry I wrote in the Ethiopia airport, but couldn't post:

You wouldn't believe what it took to get here and how lucky I will be to get home Saturday night. I am currently in Addis Ababa, using internet at the airport, but only by shear luck and a gracious, loving gesture by Deirdre.  I completely owe her more than I can even comprehend.
 
Did you know that when traveling in places not the US, that "be sure to check you flight status" actually means you have to call them 5 days before you leave to let them know you still want your seat?  Even with a paper ticket?  Yeah, neither did I.  So Deirdre and I showed up at the airport, about 2.5 hours before our flight, only to be told they weren't expecting us and there was no space on the plane for us.  And that was it.  I was at first angry, then surprisingly calm.  Then we were told that she was trying to get us on, but began preparing us for traveling tomorrow instead and working on changing our flights, as if there would be some available on a days notice.  So then I started crying.  Hard.  And couldn't stop crying.  We found a woman who let us use her phone, so D called back to the house, and finally reached someone to tell them to expect us another night and we needed a ride back from the airport. 

Then we were told she could take one of us.  One.  Deirdre told me to go - then she teared up.  It was so painful to walk away from her - utterly painful.  I felt so horrible and kept looking back behind me until we took off.  I was hopeful she would make it, and it looked like there was one empty seat, but she never appeared.
 
So now I'm traveling completely alone and feeling so guilty for taking the one seat.  It was a terrible way to leave such an amazing experience.  I surely never expected that to be the way I would depart.  I'm so grateful to be on my way home, but still worried about the journey ahead.  I have to collect my luggage in Paris and figure out customs.  I have no idea what that even means.  Oh the nerves...I'm so anxious.  And I just feel so bad for Deirdre.  I can't believe she let me go.  While a little extra time in Tanzania would be nice in a way, and I truly can't believe I have really left there, I was so ready to come home.  I just can't believe how close I already came to missing that.  I literally had worried about many other issues, but never that they had given away our seats.  Truly ridiculous.
 
My last day at Tekua was truly amazing.  I taught a little, talked to my students, had one of my students sing my favorite song of his for my video camera, was explained what the Tanzania flag colors and design mean (so so so cool), and then had my goodbye ceremony.  They sang many songs to me, including another of my Tanzania favorites (BOMBA!!), then we passed out sodas to everyone, stood in a big circle with me in the middle while they cheered to me.  Amazingly, I didn't cry, just enjoyed every moment.  Then many pictures were taken and goodbyes said.  I will really miss that school and those students.  Then it was home, repacking, rushed lunch, crazed running around and stressing out, last run into Tengeru town to pick up my tailoring, and back home to say good bye and hop in the bus.  Only to arrive and find we weren't necessarily leaving.
 
Thank whoever for Deirdre - she is my lifesaver.  I really can't believe I have actually left Tanzania and my adventure is over.  It is amazing how fast 5 weeks can go in retrospect.  I feel as though it was all a dream and I was never even there.  So crazy.  And this weird split feeling is painful - part of me wishing to still be in Tanzania, and part of me so excited for home.
 
Just means I have to go back for sure.

Thursday, August 10, 2006

Oh, Africa

So here I am, with less than 24 hours left in Tanzania, and having just finished 3 hours of packing up to leave, only to learn of terrorist threats affecting all airlines and slowing all travel significantly.

Good thing I have 4 different airplanes to catch tomorrow.

Today was overwhelming enough, and tomorrow was already scary, but now this is going on and my brain is in overwhelm. Good news is that I don't fly through the UK, just Kili to Ethiopia to Paris to Chicago and finally back to San Diego. Assuming all of flights are allowed to fly out, and that I don't miss any connections. Good news is that Ethiopian Airlines seems entirely unaware of the issues, as far as their website is concerned, and United is just banning stuff in carry-on. So that is another shining light in all of this chaos.

Anyway, I'm really getting sad about leaving this country. I have truly adjusted to living here - to being without things like safe running water, constant electricity, internet, TV and reliable transportation. I am also now used to bargaining, as well as paying very little for everything. The people here are so different from Americans in just about every way possible, and I've gotten very used to being stared at, pointed at, yelled at, and having random children run up and grab my hand and walk with me for a while. Also, albeit incredibly dangerous, the concept of the daladala as public transportation to most places for less that thirty cents is a beautiful thing. You mean vans won't just pull over, pack you in, and take you places? Bummer. Certainly will not miss the begging, or the constant invasion of my personal space.

Today was already sad at my school, and tomorrow will be even worse. We had debates today, which turned into acting out skits of the debate topic: which is better, parents picking your husband or choosing yourself. It was just so cute to see them acting it all out, declaring their love - funniest things come out of kids mouths. Then before we left, my students started asking me lots of questions about home, and school, and when I'll be back to Tanzania. Then we left and I took 5 of my students in the daladala with me to take them to use the internet in Tengeru. While in the car, one of the boys, Rama, sang my favorite song of his and his band, which just made my day. One of those moments you never want to end. Their last teacher had taken them to set up email accounts, so I took them today to check their mail and send out new emails. It was challenging to help them navigate, but they appreciated it so much and just kept thanking me. It was so sweet.

After a late lunch, I went to Arusha to finish up my shopping and trade my clothes and things I no longer want. Little frusterating and certainly did not get all I hoped for, but that is how it goes. Now I must go because I need to repack, shower and get some sleep before the mayhem that will be tomorrow. Wish me luck and send me good vibes. Excited to be going home, but sad to leave Tanzania.

And PS: Thank you Gayle so much for your incredibly sweet card - I got it the other day and they were some of the kindest words. Thank you so very much!

Monday, August 07, 2006

Kili!


So I'm trying once more, this time with only one photo, but this is me when we went to Moshi. That little peak in the background is the top of the shy mountain known as Mt. Kilimanjaro - we were mighty stoked to be able to catch just this glimpse of it. Good times. Miss you!

Just have to say...

Just felt the need to post an update saying that I am currently updating this blog from Pete O'Neal's personal computer. This is trip number 4 to his place, and I'm sitting in his office and using his computer.

I feel pretty cool right now.

Home in 6 days - yay!!

Thursday, August 03, 2006

Back on track

Habari!

So things are going well here again - not perfect, but I'm realizing how little time I have left, which makes everything a little more forgivable. I'm in a weird limbo, where I'm not quite ready to leave Tanzania, but I'm so excited to be back home. I really do feel like I live here - I've never been anywhere for a month, but tomorrow it is officially 4 weeks that I've been in-country. I'm getting to the point where I'm getting nervous about culture shock back in the US, because life here is so incredibly different. I'm very much looking forward to more organized traffic flow and my own place again - as well as much of the freedoms you sacrifice in this culture and in the facility and program I am in. Wearing tank tops again is a very exciting thought! (=

Yesterday I went on the same Moshi trip I did two weeks ago, but with the new volunteers. I just needed to get out and wasn't ready to go back to Tekua quite yet after Tuesday. The waterfall was again beautiful, I bought even more batiks, and we got to go to the caves we missed last time. Completely over-rated, I must say. You had to crawl on your hands and knees through the dirt caves, and I kept hitting my head on the top, plus there were bats. All part of the experience, I know, but the actual let down was that there was no destination. Eventually you get to some little room and another opening, but it is too far away, so basically you crawl around a little, then just go right back out how you came. Far from exciting, but worth it to say I crawled through Chagga tunnels in Tanzania. All about the experience, right?

Today at school, the students had a debate. We gather all of the classes together and they choose a topic and debate it very formally, all in English. We debated whether money or education is more important - interesting topic. They get very into it and it was fun to hear their attempts with English and their questions for each other. Plus it was nice not to teach at all, because I am trying to figure out what to teach them. They know a lot of grammar, just don't always apply it perfectly. It is frusterating that there are no lesson plans or records, so you are never sure what they have already been taught and the ability levels are so different, but it is a good challenge of patience and creativity. English is not easy to explain!

Right now I'm off to a music performance by the Positive Test Club, the organization we played soccer against, then some relaxation. Africa is fun, but tiring!

And real quickly, Pete O'Neal's party was fun. Not quite out of control as I expected, but fun. Lots of music, dancing, and Pete's drunken ramblings as he stole the microphone many times. The same traditional dancers were there (including the headmaster of the school I teach at) and there are many cool African birthday traditions we got to witness - songs, dances and a "tradition caki." First they brought out regular cake with candles, then passed out slices. But then they brought out a big table (danced it out is a better description) with a goat's head sticking out from under a sheet. They removed the sheet to reveal the rest of the goat's body, in the most awkward position ever, which appeared somewhat cooked. Turns out traditional caki is a sacrificial animal, in this case a goat. And it is rude to refuse it, so I put my piece in my empty cup. Good stuff. Much more went on, but time is short and pictures and video will do it better justice.

Well off I go - and thanks as always for the messages of support - you all have certainly gotten me through this - thank you!

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Silenced.

I have been wanting internet, but unable to get it. Much fun was had at Pete O'Neal's birthday party, but I am not writing of that today because it doesn't seem appropriate.

I know I said I was hit by a car, and in a way I was. But as you can see from the description previously, and as I learned today, struck or grazed by a car is a much more appropriate description. Because today, I witnessed what being hit by a car really means.

I don't want to say much, because it is upsetting and unnecessary to go into details, but I was teaching this morning when a woman crossing the street directly in front of our school was hit by a truck. People went rushing. The driver came back. We were told she was taken to the hospital because she was breathing, but I really doubt that is the truth.

And I saw it all happen.

Try teaching English after seeing that.

Please keep this woman in your prayers and the safety of all others on these dangerous roads and this crazy highway. They say it is the most dangerous highway in the world, and now I'm convinced this is true.

Tomorrow I'm going back to Moshi, so it will be a good distraction before returning to teaching on Thursday.

Hope all is well and I really miss home. Only 11 more days till I'm back home, and honestly, I can't wait. This country is beautiful and I hope you all see it some day, but I miss home.

Saturday, July 29, 2006

2 More Weeks

Hello! Today is market day in Tengeru, so getting to the internet place is a mix of "Mzungu!" yelling and hellos of venders trying to get your attention, plus winding among them because it is mostly just tarps with merchandise on them and many many people. Madness! And it has been raining a lot here (wow the power just surged or something - that was weird) so it is super muddy. The craziest part of the market though, I think, are the women who navigate that all with some crazy thing balanced on their heads - like a big sack of rice or a bucket or water or even a bunch of bananas! I can't even do it with nothing - it is like no matter how long I am here, seeing people walking with things balanced on their heads is endlessly fascinating. I'm trying to learn, but I'm not sure I have the balance. And I'm sure I'll never be able to walk with a bunch of long corn staulks on my head as they do - simply beautiful.

So I officially changed placement and I start teaching on Monday, taking over my friend Sarah's class because she goes home today. I wish I could explain in words how great this school is - Michelle (who is also taking over a class) and I went with Sarah and Daniel (another volunteer here also leaving today) on Friday because Sarah wanted me to video tape. On Friday's they have a religious service for the first hour and half, then just sing and dance basically for the rest of the school day - no class. Just all of the students together singing. We didn't go to the service because it is all in Swahili, but danced and sang at the end (while the students laughed at us trying to do it right). Then after the break it was basically and hour and a half goodbye ceremony to Sarah and Daniel. It was so touching. They have been teaching there for only 3 weeks and yet everyone was sad to be saying goodbye. The students are so caring and so eager to learn - they just want to get all that they can from us while we are there. It was so much fun and just an amazing thing to be a part of. And it was great because Sarah introduced me to them on Wednesday and they are excited for me to take over her class. The students all asked where I was on Thursday (because I did my last day at St. Lucia) - so cute. Anyway, I know it will be hard, but I'm very excited to teach as best I can.

My last day at St. Lucia was nice - super boring, but nice. We spent the first 2 hours with the older kids, then laundry when they left for school. But the new child we have, Hilda, I'm not sure I mentioned before. She is the cutest thing ever - and the only kid I have comfortably interacted with. She is 4 years old, but is barely the size of a 2 year old. But she walks and talks like a kid her age. She is completely cross-eyed, which is sad and yet endearing at the same time. And she has quite the attitude on her - I'm guessing she's had a rough time and has had to defend herself, but it is funny now with the other kids - they are twice her size yet she'll just walk up and push them, then just stand there staring at them. And on Thursday while Garrett and I were doing laundry, there was a bucket with a cloth soaking in water in it. She walked over, got a handful of detergent, put it in the water, and started scrubbing the cloth in her hands (after pushing up her sleeves of course) and wringing out the water. It was amazing. She could have taught us how to wash the clothes by hand - makes you really wonder what her first 4 years have been like. I'm guessing she is positive, based on her size (plus malnutrition), but they haven't tested her yet. So cute - she made me almost want to stay at St. Lucia.

The hardest part of being here is feeling so up and down all the time - torn between wanting to go home and not being ready to leave. I'm tired and getting sick of certain things, yet I know that when I get home I'm going to be sad I left. Just need to make the most of my final 2 weeks. My safari plans fell through and I no longer get to go to the Serengeti - very sad, but I'm trying to let it go. Just means I have to come back to this beautiful country - I hope you all get a chance to come here - I even know of hotels to stay in! I'll help you plan - you have to come here. It is simply beautiful and I'm already excited for my next trip here. Instead of the 4 day Serengeti, I think I'm going on a camel safari in the Arusha National Park - you can do 3 days for much much cheaper and see almost all the same animals - plus you get to ride a camel!!! Hah. Here's hoping it works out cuz I can't leave here without seeing animals!

Well my time is almost up and the power seems a bit unstable today, so I'll leave it at that for now. Going to Pete O'Neal's birthday party tonight, so I'm very excited about that - should be quite the party. Plus we get to stay there again which means a night away from the home base - just as exciting. And I'm staying safe - no more cars!

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

You won't believe what happened...

Hello all! So for starters, before I scare you again, I'm doing much better. I'm realizing that while it is hard at times, I'm not quite ready to be out of here yet so I'm glad to have 2 weeks more instead of leaving this weekend. So all in all, 5 weeks is a good call.

And I'm taking my adventure in my own hands and changing my placement (I hope, as long as the crazy people running this program listen to me). I'm switching to a secondary school which is free to students, teaching english. They also have some amazing art students who have created that gallery full of paintings and wood carvings that I described earlier (same school.) The whole place just has a great vibe that I feel better with that I ever felt at St. Lucia, and even just today I felt more useful than I have this whole trip. Talk about a 180 huh? Teaching english is definitely challenging and frusterating, but it a way that it feels like I am getting somewhere with it and they want to learn so badly. The main problem is that they memorize so much, that it is hard to know when they actually understand and when they are just saying, "Yes teacher" because that is what they always say. I'm hoping that with 2 weeks I can teach them something and at least give them hope of learning. Not exactly the HIV/AIDS work I set out for, but the illiteracy of this country is astonishing and will benefit society as a whole if people keep learning. And one of the guys there made a necklace that I got today that is a carved AIDS ribbon he made - very cool.

But back to the part you won't believe:

Yesterday, I got hit by a car.

Yeah. A moving crazy vehicle on these crazy roads.

But I'm fine. I really am. My arm, the part of me which got hit, feels a little funny today, but somehow is not bruised and seems to be in working order. Plus I get the joy of claiming from now on that I was hit by a car in Tanzania. I mean, how many people can say that??

It happened while I was finally on a home visit with St. Lucia, our first in the 2.5 weeks we've been here. It involved going into Arusha town to buy some food to bring people, then we walked through the city, over some hill, down dirt roads, across railroad tracks, down unpaved roads, across wood planks laid over ditches, and through little alleys of homes. Crazy things to see for sure. Then we visit patients, take their history, get their current ailments and provide what we can, mostly vitamins. There is a man from St. Lucia with us, translating and providing the care, but he asks us for help as if we actually know medical things. That part is a bit strange. The first house the man had stroke-related paralysis - what do you prescribe for that between multivitamins, calcium and pain relievers we didn't have. It is hard to not be able to provide more than that, but the important part is making sure that people are caring for them, that they have food to eat and a decent shelter, plus no severe ailments.

The first house we went to was a nicer one - solid cement walls, furniture, food, and plenty of people caring for the man. The next was my first time really inside a mud hut - wood frame walls filled in with mud and random aluminum pieces forming the roof. On the inside were random cardboard pieces and empty sacs covering the walls, and just a bed and chair. The patient was so thin, and has been to the hospital a lot recently, but has also begun walking again which is great news. Lastly we went to check on the children of a man who passed away earlier in the week, and found their mother had come back and they were doing alright.

And somewhere in the middle of walking all over Arusha, I was walking on the side of the road, in conversation with Garrett about something I can't recall. When you walk here, especially on the narrow roads, most cars honk at you, slow down and give you space. But apparently not all of them. I remember hearing a car coming, feeling like we were well out of the way, then suddenly my arm was flung forward and I looked up to see a truck going by with a now flipped over side mirror. Garrett says he was just relieved I was still next to him, as he half expected me to have been dragged with it as he saw it happening. He testifies that the mirror was definitely broken by my arm. I was ok, just shocked, but of course once asked if I was alright I started crying. But it seriously didn't hurt, it was just upsetting, and every car after that made me jump. We also switched to the correct side of the road after that, so you could see them coming.

Like I said, mostly just a crazy story now, cuz there doesn't seem to be any major damage. But I'm certainly done with St. Lucia's. They do a lot of good in the community, I just feel my energy needs to go elsewhere, so tomorrow will be my last day there so I can say goodbye then move on.

So that's my story.

In other news, I have spent the last 2 evenings at Pete O'Neal's house. Google him - but here's a hint: Leader of the Black Panthers in Kansas City way back in the day, until he was (wrongly he says) accused of carrying a gun across state lines after threatening to rush the Senate. I'm sure you can find the whole story if you are interested, but he and his wife left the country and have been living in Arusha, Tanzania for over 30 years. He and his wife have built this great compound which offers free classes in painting, batik, cloth crafts, computers and other skills to local youth. It is called the United African Alliance Community Center. It is also a lodge you can stay at. I bought the most amazing patchwork bag with a batik Rhino - I'm very excited. So we went, toured, learned about Pete, then had an amazing dinner over there. Before we left, he invited us over the following night for a movie night.

So that was last night - we ate dinner at the home base then took the crazy drive over there (some more horribly unstable roads). He wasn't around, so we just socialized in the great atmosphere that is his property. Around 10, some of the employees came by the turn off the lights - because there was a fire dancer procession coming down the drive. Pete's son was arriving for his first visit in 18 years, and they had fire dancers walking in front of his car, which then turned into a whole dance - 2 men and 2 women - it was beautiful. Especially the amazing drumming in the background (so African) and when the women danced with pots of fire balanced on their heads. By the end we were all up and dancing with them - it was great. Then we got to meet his son, as well as Geronimo Pratt - another former Black Panther who was wrongly imprisoned for 27 years and came to Tanzania when released. Funny story about him, but this is already too long so it will have to wait. By the end of the night we just talked to Geronimo and never got around to the movie. The we got to spend the night, which we thought was going to be tent camping and instead we were offered a stay in the rooms nicer than ours back at home base. Good times. We had to be up early for placement, but well worth the experience. I mean, who hangs out with former Black Panthers? They are changed men by the way, helping the community here immensely and inviting 20 white college students to spend the evening - good stuff. And Saturday we are going to Pete's birthday party - I'm excited.

Alright, this is too long even to read - I apologize. Hope it is interesting - I like being able to share while the experiences are still fresh. Missing you all, but I will make it through to the end. Thanks for all the kind words - I love being able to read messages from everyone - it very much helps me.

PS: Last week we played soccer with a group called the Positive Test Club - and they put an article and picture in the newspaper! I'm not listed cuz I didn't play, but it is still mighty exciting. I like how we are San Diego University...hah. Anyway, check out the link below to see the article. Good stuff.
That's Us!

Sunday, July 23, 2006

PS

Congrats on Giacomo! Brant told me about the win - I'm so sad I missed it. YAY!!

I'm still alive...

I'm about to give up on internet here, it is just not easy to access and a bit unreliable when you do. So I apologize if I don't respond to your emails, but I love reading them. There just isn't much time to respond to all of the wonderful thoughts and comments, but they really help me here.

I'm having a hard time. I'm homesick and just getting tired of things here. Everyone who talks to you, who you think is being friendly, is just after money. Even the children. They see a white person and they think that is an invitation to run up to you, follow you, talk to you, and ask you for money. It is just getting upsetting and old. I've gotten to the point what I just hate talking to people because you feel you can't trust them even to have a conversation. And they are always men, which is just intimidating.

Good news is that I've been some pretty great places in that past week, but I'm still getting very ready to come home. Makes me wish I had only done the 3 weeks of the original program instead of extending my time to 5. Three more weeks here is daunting and a bit upseting. Hoping that things improve, but I'm just done with being in this program. My placement is frusterating, as I feel I just do everything wrong and that even what I do isn't very helpful to anyone. We are supposed to finally go on home visits this week, which I hope are as interesting and helpful as they sound. Otherwise I am just losing hope. I guess it is just part of the experience, but I'm just not sure how to make things better.

Enough of the pity though, I'm sorry. As far as cool things, we went to Moshi on Wednesday for the day which was really fun. We went to a batik factory and I got some really incredible batiks made. I'm very excited about that - they are just stunning. It was cool to see and learn about how they are made. Then we went on a hike to this waterfall, which was absolutely gorgeous. The hike down was scary and I slipped and fell once, but it was worth it. I have pictures for sure, but the interenet is too slow and cuts out too much to post them. When I get home I will post many for sure. We also saw a baobab tree (like in The Little Prince)- it was HUGE!! Pictures of that too - it must be thousands of years old. Crazy. We also checked out some traditional Chagga houses (the local tribe here) and were supposed to see some caves but the men who run it had a death in the family. The drive there and back (about an hour each way) was just insane - we were in a huge bus that had like no shocks at all. Then we drove in that bus on roads that no car should drive, let alone a huge packed bus. So glad we made it home - very scary, but such is driving here no matter the conditions. People are crazy and road signs are practically non-existant. Allegedly the highway here goes from Cairo to Cape Town and is the most dangerous highway in the world. Fun stuff. The greatest part was on the way home the clouds cleared and we finally saw Mt. Kilimanjaro. Very special - it does not appear often. It still has icecaps on it, but not many. It was gorgeous.

Then Thursday, instead of going to my placement, I went with some of the other volunteers who teach at a secondary school to help do a sexual health class. It was a great experience. When we first went, the volunteers usually placed there did some regular lessons and went over homework, so Christina (another volunteer helping out that day) and I went to check out the student art they have for sale there right now. And I was awestruck. I was not prepared for the incredible talent of these students - their paintings are better than some I've seen in galleries. Or at the least of that caliber. And a teacher there came into the small room covered with the paintings and explained some of their meanings. Very deep. They are all for sale and I'm trying to get some pictures (yeah right) if I can incase anyone reading this is interested. They are spectacular.

Then we split the girls and boys (after some of the boys rapped and sang for us - that was exciting) and taught just basic adolescence info and some safe sex (mostly HIV prevention and respect related topics) then answered questions. It was very interesting trying to convey even simple ideas because of the language barrier. Even though they are learning english, they do not know some of the words and we didn't have a translator. It was quite the challenge but I feel we got at least some of the information across. It felt more helpful than anything else I have done here, so that is the good news. It was a great opportunity for sure.

Then Friday we had a special trip that we set up, leaving placement early to get there in time. We met up at a place called MMM - Medical Mercenaries for Mary - and went with a sister there on her rounds. It was the craziest thing I have done here. We had a dala dala van packed with all of us, and started driving on these insane non-roads. This organization caters to the HIV positive population, as well as other sick people, focusing a lot on holistic medicine and other supportive methods other than just popping pills. She focuses a lot on the Maasai population, the local tribes who practice polygamy and who are being infiltrated by AIDS, leaving many wives and children when the man dies. We stopped at one woman's home and prayed with her, then another that was a hut type home with a thick straw roof and walls made of dung and mud. It was soooo smokey in there cuz they burn fires inside the house and bring the cows, donkeys and goats into the house at night. Such a different way of life. Then we drove further, on the dustiest road I have ever seen. There was more dust than air in the van, I swear. Luckily I had a bandana to tie around my face, but people were using anything they had to cope. And there are potholes the size of small graves and gaping crevices - no idea how we didn't tip over or have to push at some point - it was indescribable.

Finally the van could go no further, so we started walking to visit homes and went the 3 more places, the last of which were 6 women, all recently widowed by the same man, and many many children. I'm not sure the kids had ever seen "mzungus" before (white people) and were scared of us at first. The women were very welcoming, and told the children we were ok, so they shook our hands and marveled at our skin. We took some incredible pictures with them that I think are my favorites so far. It was just incredible to have such a first hand encounter with life so different from our own. One girl was a new wife, only 14 years old I think. They were mostly fabric pieces and children walk around with babies on their backs and machetes in their hands, collecting corn staulks. Just so different from anything we are used to or ever experience. I think it was my favorite thing we have done so far. We somehow made it back alive on those roads and I immediately ran to wash off the dust.

Now just a lazy weekend, new arrivals which is fun. Only 3 minutes left, so I'll go. Hoping my mental state improves, send me good vibes please so I have the strength to do better. Love you!

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Sorry

Hey all. So internet here is sooooooo sllllllooooowwwww that the pictures hadn't finished uploading when my internet time ran out. Such a bummer. I'll give it one more shot then I give up and you will have to wait till I get back. I don't have time for a real update cuz many are waiting for this computer, but yeah. Tomorrow we have a day trip to Moshi (like the pillows! hah) which is the town at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro. We are going to a batik factory and a waterfall, among other stops. I'm mighty excited. Plus placement isn't going so well, so it will be nice to have a mid-week break. Anyway, more soon I'm hoping.

Hope all is well and thanks for keeping up with me. (=

Monday, July 17, 2006

Picture time!

So I finally have time to post more pictures - here we go!

First, the french version of SunGod, as I keep promising to show. Plus Deirdre and I in front of it - seriously, who goes to Paris and immediately searches for this? Good times.

Then, Tanzania. Some lodge pictures from our first 2 days - that place is amazing and I really want to go back - so lush, crazy birds, and a funny restaurant.

Then Tengeru. Picture in the van, same kind as a dala dala, but with way less people. Imagine the inside of this with at least twice the people.

Pictures from inside the car, showing the crazy roads, colors and people carrying things on their heads (I wish I were so cool.) Plus pictures of just pretty trees (most of them are banana trees)

Except that the picture feature here isn't working with the slow connection. Instead you can look at them here: First pictures
The internet is so slow, that I'm not sure exactly when they will be posted, but I'm really trying.

So I'm thinking a play-by-play of my day is not so exciting, so I'll stick to interesting happenings and cultural descriptions - seems more interesting.

The kids: They are very cute and everywhere. Kids just walking around alone or in groups, no parents. Yesterday there were some little boys teaching a younger one to ride his bike. When they see us muzungus, they wave or say hello, or just yell how are you? Everyone that you ask says, "I'm fine." Clearly that is all they are taught. It is really cute. They get so excited when you talk to them. They also tend to say good morning, regardless of time of day, as if they hear that from their teachers and don't associate it with time of day. Some will even just run up to you and hold your hand and walk with you for a while. So cute. They are just so happy amidst all of the poverty. They also are very responsible and grown up, with so many responsibilities at home, which is sad.

Sunday, July 16, 2006

Finally some internet...



Well now that it has been days without an update, I hope people have not lost hope in my updates. Please tell me people are still checking this! Internet here is just far from reliable - the power comes are goes, I just finally found the internet place in our little town of Tengeru, and the other internet place is a bit of haul and a daladala ride away. Anyway. Yeah, kinda funny - the power is officially shut off on Tuesdays and Fridays, by the government. We have a generator for us, but that means no internet in town, just in Arusha. Bummer.

So the last few days. Not much has happened, so I will spend more time uploading some pictures instead of describing the nothingness. Basically got sick, super dizzy and nauseous but never puking, so I didn't go to placement Wed or Thurs, just stayed in bed and became homesick. Not so good. Friday finally felt well enough to go to St. Lucia, and was just a little saddened because I don't feel useful at all. Tobadina, the nurse there, just gives us random household chores to do, most of which she redoes herself a little after we do it. I think she just tells us to do things so we are out of the way. Maybe when there are less volunteers, there will be more to do.

Oh, I guess something more did happen. The new patient at St. Lucia did pass away Tuesday night after we left. She was just too sick and weak. Garrett, another volunteer, helped move her body on Wednesday. So sad, as is unnecessary to state. It was very hard on Friday going into the patients' room and seeing the now mattress-less bed where she had been on my first day. I was surprised the mood was not more somber, but I guess they are a bit used to it here and must continue regular care. Very overwhelming for us fresh-off-the-boat volunteers.

So, not sure how to proceed from there, but anyway. After feeling a little disappointed at placement, came back home and many people left for the weekend for a safari. I was going to go, but couldn't commit with being sick. Then saturday I went to town with some girls who were leaving, and learned the art of market bargaining. Very exciting. Got a couple of things for good prices, so I was happy. Then spent Saturday night talking to people and trying to make popcorn, but to no avail. Today it was pouring, so we spent most of the day just relaxing and playing cards, until now coming to use internet.

Sorry this is so sparse, I just have little time and want to post pictures. The picture above, because John asked, is a picture from my balcony view, so you can get an idea of how pretty it is here and what it looks like. Lots of trees and corn basically. I'll do that, then see what time is left. If nothing else, I'll be back hopefully sooner than usual, with more details. Sorry to be so brief - it's like there is so much to say, I don't know how to say it.

Know that I am safe and happy, just a little homesick, but that is to be expected. Missing you! Love, Kendra

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Mambo! Hujambo! Habari!

I don't even know how to explain the past 4 days. So much has happened that I am in overwhelm and only have 24 minutes left on the internet. Oh goodness. Well the short of it is that things are very good. I can't believe how far one can come in the span of a few days - on the planes here I was in tears, worried about what I had gotten myself into and doubting my ability to cope, and now I'm slowly learning Swahili, jumping on the dala dala at every chance, and enjoying so much. The home base where we are staying is just incredible - it is like staying in a hotel and not the roughing it that I imagined. The bucket showers aren't so bad, we have hot water it just gets a little cold between dumps of water. We brush our teeth with bottled water, which is a strange experience to change your usual habits. The food is great - mostly lots of veggies, rice and beans, so I'm feeling a little meat-withdrawals, but otherwise it is good. And I'm addicted to the tea here - I think I drink 4+ cups a day. The home base is in Tengeru, a village outside of Arusha. We have a little marketplace area close by, but it is very rundown and I don't speak enough to feel comfortable. We have a club next door, with pool and drinks (good soda) and a dressmaker so I can get clothes made.

I'm sorry, I'm feeling like I don't know what to share right now.

It is a lot like you would imagine - so many colors, people carrying things on their heads, an assortment of houses - some very nice, some shacks, and even mud huts (but they are actually very nice!). The people are so friendly. The greetings are a big deal around here and there are so many ways to say things and appropriate responses, that I get them confused. My favorite though is greeting elders, because you say "shikamoo" and they respond with "marahana" which is an exchange of respect. I wish america had a similar exchange. A summary of my last few days:

Saturday: Left the lodge and were taken to a school performance where students from 3 schools had created these plays/dances/songs performances that we were invited to watch. They were absolutely incredible and the most amazing welcome to country. I forgot my video camera in the van, but another girl videoed it, so hopefully I can share because there are no words. Then we went to the homebase and got settled, then went in to explore the town. My goal for this trip is to not be afraid or wimp out of things and just try it all. I started by exploring the market, then when we were bored with that, 4 of us with no idea what we were doing, jumped on the dala dala to town.

About the dala dala - public transportation here, so insane. They are like 15 person vans, that so far I've had as many as 27 people on. You are literally standing pushed against people or on laps, and clinging to the sides and the roof. They just stop and cram more people on all the time. Insane. My first ride I had chickens (live and tied in a bunch) on my feet. Craziness but so normal. Funny. Not to mention the driving is insane - passing with an oncoming car very close, pulling off the side of the road quickly and back on just as fast, horns honking all the time - nutso. Noone seems to crash however, so that's the good news.

Anyway, we explored Arusha town but had no idea where to go, so we came back after 2 hours. Took a little while to find our home again, but we figured it out.

Sunday: Woke up early and went to church. We were supposed to have a ride, but instead walked an hour to the church and what ended up a 4 hour service. Mostly in Swahili, but great to experience. Amazing singing and dancing, with the cutest little kids joining in the dancing. At one point, people just get up and start dancing down the aisle, and I was the first in our group of "mezugus" to get up and join. So fun. The later some other older volunteers took us back to the good part of town and to the ATM for shillings and showed us the market. They have the most amazing wood carvings and other souvenirs - I am in trouble. I was so impressed by the quality and spent some time talking to one of the carvers. It was fun and great to learn.

Monday: Orientation, finally. Sooo boring, especially after already exploring town before hand. Felt like summer camp. Didn't do much else.

Tuesday: Finally went to my placement. It is like a 10 minute drive, so we got to see some more areas. St. Lucia is not quite how I imagined it, but just as intense. There are 3 women and 12 children, all HIV+. The children seem healthy, but the women as so sick. They are there to recover and hopefully I will get to experience improvement. I spent most of my time helping to cook and hanging laundry, but other duties are playing with the children, bathing and feeding the patients, home visits for patients at their homes and cleaning. One of the women almost died today. So intense, that is all I can say. I hope to find the strength for this experience.

Now we are in town and my time is very close to up on the computer. I hate having to be so brief in my descriptions, because the details are what make this place so incredible. I will bring my camera for pictures next time, because there are no words to describe things. I miss you lots and already feel a little homesick as well as possible otherwise sick. I'm trying to fight it, but so many at the homebase are sick. I must go but hopefully less time between posts in the future. Thanks again for the support and leave comments so I know who is reading this - just be a guest if you aren't a blogger member. Miss you love you!

Kwaheri!
Kendra
PS: My favorite swahili so far: lala fofofo - sleep like a fallen banana. Nice.

Friday, July 07, 2006

We Made It!

So 46 hours since I woke up Wednesday morning after two hours of sleep, plus 4 plane rides, a crazy 6 hour Paris journey, and one naked French man later, I have made it to ARUSHA! And I'm finally on a normal keyboard, so I can type again! Oh, and sorry for the tease about pictures...I thought they uploaded but I guess not so much. Anyway, they were supposed to show the first thing Deirdre and I thought was important to see in Paris: The French SunGod. So funny. There is this crazy statue/art piece at UCSD that we call Sun God (Erik actually knows about it) and that same artist has a bunch of work displayed in a fountain thing in Paris, so yeah. Pictures soon I hope.

Anyway, ARUSHA! So crazy. I really can't believe I am here, but they there are these loud and giant birds walking around, banana trees everywhere, and everyone speaks Swahili. Gotta work on learning that - so I far I know almost nothing.

In Paris, we ended up walking past the Louvre, the Obelisque, seeing the Eiffel Tower and Arc in the distance, and taking the metro back to the Opera and the bus back to the airport, only to eat a depressing dinner of Mickey D's as nothing else was open. Then we had a overnight flight to Ethiopia, during which I finally slept. Woot. Sleep is good. Then in Ethiopia we found 2 other girls in our group, which was very exciting and encouraging. The flight to Mt. Kilimanjaro was only 2.5 hours, and the rest of our group was waiting to pick us up. Then we drove in a big van to our hotel for the night. The drive in was amazing - the road was paved, which was a nice surprise, and there were just thousands of trees, lots of goats, cattle, and donkeys, and people everywhere. Everything seems to be pretty much outdoors, which is fun. We drove by a bunch of shops, which are just sort of rundown sheds with people outside.

Even typing it I can't believe I'm here. Our hotel is just amazing. Thatched roof buildings, a really cool lounge/bar with sand floor and rocks, tree stumps stools with cusions...I can't even explain it. We had the longest lunch I've ever had - I think we are the only people here and there are 19 of us, so we overwhelmed them or something. So funny. Totally didn't get what I ordered, but no biggie. Now I'm just updating then either resting or going into town. Can't decide.

The good news is, that despite the panics and tears the whole way here, now that we actually made it, I'm so happy. Already I love it. I have no idea what tomorrow will be like, finally going to our home base in Tengeru, but I like things so far. Thanks for all of the support, yet again, and I certainly do miss home. Hopefully posting pictures soon. Love you!

And HAPPY BIRTHDAY KALI! So exciting - have a fabulous day! (it is the 7th here already...) Thinking of you!

Thursday, July 06, 2006

PARIS!!!

Hello! im typing on a french keyboard so my typing is very off. please forgive. just had to do an update from here - already i am overwhelmed by our journey, but i will survive. already lost my water bottle, but ill make it. cant stand this keyboard so this is it for now. already miss home and everyone so very much. thank you for the emails they mean so much to me! love you! more from africa! ps this is the french sun god. woot.

Sunday, July 02, 2006

Contact Me!

So Arusha is 7 hours ahead of the east coast, so 10 hours ahead of the west coast. Complicated for communication. Plus our annex has one phone for 36 of us. Power is also limited, and I guess it comes and goes. Thus, phone calls will be a little complicated. I'm working on finding out if my cell phone is a world phone and trying to get a phone chip in country to use there. I'll keep you posted.

Anyway, I think email and posting comments on this blog will be the best way to contact me. There is an internet cafe close to our annex and Arusha town also has internet access places. I'm hoping to send out an email when I get there from the hotel, but no guarantees. Just stick to no news is good news, and luckily I'm there 5 weeks so I'm sure I will eventually figure out the communication thing.

So leave me comments, send me emails (to kfkadas@gmail.com) and forward to anyone who's email address I didn't have. (Can someone send me Jan's email? I can't find it! Thanks!)

Love you!

Saturday, July 01, 2006

Hello Everyone!


Today is Sunday, July 2nd and I'm leaving for Arusha, Tanzania on Wednesday, July 5th. While there I will be immersed in the local culture and working closely with the community doing AIDS volunteer work. My placement is at St. Lucia, which is a hospice care center for people with AIDS. St. Lucia was founded in December 2002 as a Non-Profit Organization by M. Winfrida Mwashala, after witnessing and feeling the level of discrimination directed against HIV/AIDS victims as well as the total lack of medical care and input. Typically, HIV/AIDS affects livelihoods and families through loss of income when breadwinners can no longer work. When this happens, other family and house hold members are forced to spend time and resources caring for those infected. This burden usually falls on women and girls. This forces some girls to stop schooling. Nutrition deteriorates with less money for food and less labor for farm production. Families suffer from stress as many members become sick and die and may also experience alienation from their community due to the HIV/AIDS stigma.

Heavy stuff, I know. I'm feeling overwhelmed but also empowered to help in every way that I can while I'm there.

So here I go - off to run more errands and check more things off the endless lists running through my head. Leaving oh so soon!

And for more info:

Cross Cultural Solutions is the volunteer placement organization I'm there through. Visit this link to see a video of Arusha.
Arusha Video

My hotel the first night
L'Oasis Lodge